I forgot that I wanted to change the girl’s eyelashes. They are very dark and stiff, but I am not sure what to use instead.

Sylvie looks as if she wasn’t too happy about the weather either.

Have a lovely and hopefully sunny rest of the week!

I wish you a peaceful and sunny holiday.

We have St. Martin’s day in November, with processions at night, where kids with self made paper lanterns follow a “St. Martin” on a white horse to a place where a bonfire is lit. After that the children go from house to house with their lanterns, sing songs and expect candy in return. They don’t wear costumes, though, that would be at carnival.

Anyway, the kids love every opportunity to dress up. Dots wanted to be a ghost, and Mailin helped with her costume. Amanthis found a new bony friend. Skeletons don’t scare her in that size- and he looks rather friendly, doesn’t he?

But since holidays became sort of international, I took the liberty to mix Halloween with the Día de los Muertos. I have not posted this one I believe.

Happy Halloween! Is Halloween a thing where you live?

I updated the eye sheet PDFs, since some people seemed to have printing problems with the protected files. If your phone wouldn’t let you print the files, please try again with the new PDFs. I tested the previously available files on my system, and they worked just fine. I didn’t know about the problems until I got the feedback, thank you for that and the test runs, Elysia!

I removed the protection, and I hope you keep the few rules in mind I asked to follow: Please do not share the PDF without the link to this blog. Feel free to share the link to the blog page using the social sharing buttons. And please subscribe before you use them. Thank you!

Before you try to print the sheets:

• Make sure you have chosen the right paper size for your printer, either A4 or Letter.
• Deactivate automatic scaling in case it’s activated (print 100% size).
• Don’t forget to enter the custom page range you want to print (only page 2).
• Print in high quality and specify what paper you use if your printer needs that information.

Just in case you still get the password question, make sure you cleared your cache. If you still have problems, please let me know in the comments. And if you can print them just fine, please let me know as well. I can’t try to fix problems if I don’t know about them ;).

You’ll find the new template PDFs here:

ResinRapture free doll eye templates

And since I started my little crew with just a head and faceplates and needed to assemble them, I had to find strings that would fit through the mechanism. I had some white kite line back from kite flying days. It does not only fit perfectly, it seems to be the exact same nylon line that’s used for them by default.

But while the kite line works perfect as a string, my assortment of beads with large holes is very limited. So I decided to make the beaded part with a thinner string and beads I already had. It’s cotton crochet yarn, about 3 cm in the middle are crocheted for the loop. I attached the beaded part in a way that would allow me to take it off quickly to open the head. Maybe it’s not the most elegant way to do it like this, but since the knot is not visible I don’t really care. For the last two girls I didn’t even cut the string, just made a couple of knots above the connection bead. You can see the connection part in the third picture.

Also in the third picture are the Noosa chunk pendants I love to use as weights for the sleep eye strings. The number of available button designs is endless – and of course you can make your own buttons the same way you can make eyes.

Which brings us to the eyes. I just released the Spring edition eye sheets and made more eyes than my crew could possibly wear. But it is FUN! And since I found a nice little helper for closed-head eye changes, I can change the resin eyes in a minute to match outfits or just for fun- at least the forward looking eyes. The resin eye chips are easy to get out anyway, usually by poking a needle somewhere into the side. But I don’t really like to do that, if you get the needle between the print and dome, the result might be a white scratch. And if you try this without opening the head, the chips can fall inside the head and you need to open it anyway.

But I found this tiny suction thingy in a clutter box and the suction cup has exactly the size of the eye. I don’t even know what it’s supposed to be, it was a give-away from a super market. They were called emojis or stikeez. There are rubber micro suction cups you can buy for mobile game control, I guess they do the job just as well.

Some of the new Spring edition eye designs in a doll. I will probably change some of them again, but that’s the beauty of 4 pairs of eyes. I can let them keep them just for fun, even if the color or pupil size doesn’t suit the character. I prefer the smaller pupil eyes for the side ways looking eyes, but I know that many people like their pupils really large. They look a lot younger- and probably cuter.

I find myself thinking about customizing more of these little buggers. The fact that I can not only paint but carve them to give them their individual unique face is just too tempting to resist. I hope you can endure a couple more Blythe posts :).

But wait, there’s more… 🙂

As a special spring treat you’ll get 65 new colors and designs in PDF format as well!

Have you made new spring outfits for your dolls and want to try some new eye colors? Maybe you find just the matching pair :).
Most of them are lush colors with large pupils, some of them are available with a smaller pupil as well. They will look best if you print them on glossy photo paper.

The most convenient chips to use are resin stickers. They are easy to change and you can make a new pair in a minute. You can purchase special Blythe resin chips here for example: BeBeBlytheCo on Etsy I have tried glass as well as resin, and I love the resin stickers. They are so easy to get in and out that I frequently change the eye colors to match outfits.

The PDF are protected, but the password is easy enough to remember, it’s resinrapture.

Please subscribe to the blog if you want to use them. Thank you!

Just click on the image below to jump right to the ResinRapture eye templates. You’ll find the PDFs at the bottom of the page.

And of course I’d love to see how your doll looks with eyes you made using the templates. Join the facebook group OneSixbackstage and show your work!

Note: Since a lot of patterns require the same basic techniques, I am not going to walk you through every step with every pattern. I don’t want to insult your sewing skills. But in case you are unsure how to go about it: Here is a short guide with some tricks and tips. I hope it helps to understand why I do certain things and how.

And now:

The hopefully ultimate all-in-one dress pattern…

The pattern is made to fit the Pure Neemo S body.

Make sure you print the PDF without automatic scaling.

Letter / DIN A4 PDF
Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog if you want to use it!

Tutorial

Ok, not all in one, but certainly a lot in one. I tried to design the pattern in a way that would allow you to use just a single pattern piece for a variety of dress forms and looks. Of course it’s up to you how you use it. And if you are a fan of a mass of tiny pattern pieces, print and cut as many as you like. But if you are like me and can’t remember if one out of twenty tiny pieces was for Barbie or Blythe and for what dress, I think you might like the idea of the all-in-one pattern. And since I hope you will get as much use out of it as I am, I’ll show you what I did to make it last.

As you can see in the first picture, I cut one half of the neckline high and one low, I just turn the pattern to draw the other half. And I cover the pieces with self adhesive clear film. I use kid’s felt pen to draw on fabric, it washes out easily and you can see it through the fabric, and with the film on the pattern I can just wipe it off.

After that is done, I make tiny cut-outs where I want to draw the different top lengths. For an under-bust top I just don’t add sewing allowance to (1). To mark the sleeve lengths cut out darts are usually enough. Just use one of the straight edges as a ruler to connect the marks you made using the darts. The second sleeve piece is just for puffed sleeves, if you never make them you don’t need it.

But in case you want to make puffed sleeves, here’s how to use the piece.

First you want to use it to draw your sleeve (add allowance). I am not a fan of gathers in the armpit, so we start gathering where the tiny blue marks are (1). It’s a lot easier to gather your sleeve if you use some masking tape to keep the fabric in place (2+3). I usually just use one strip to tape the fabric to the pattern piece, just below the point where I want to start with my gathering stitch. It’s just easier to see the position in the picture with the tiny strips.

Start your gathering stitch at the mark and shove the fabric a bit down until you can see the black curved line. Press the middle of your fabric to the middle of the piece and push the gathers into place until they pull the fabric down (3). Just keep in mind that you work with allowance, the curve is approximately at the same height as your line on the fabric, not the edge of the fabric. Make a knot or a back stitch to keep the first part of the gathers in place. It’s hard to explain, but when you are actually doing it it’s quite obvious what to do. Same for the second half. Lock your stitch. You have now pre-gathered your sleeve and it will be much easier to fit it into the arm hole. You already know how to set the sleeves if you have read the guide with tips and tricks.

If you want a little cuff, make a fold and add a tiny seam just below the fold. Make sure the fold points up. Whether you make your cuff bottom seam now or after you closed the sides is up to you.

I am pretty sure you will have lots of ideas how to combine or alter lengths and parts, add collars or vary the skirt lengths. Just one last thing: The back part is designed to close overlapping. I fold back both pieces at the dotted line, add a top stitch and decide to either attach press buttons or close the dress skirt. I just place the folds on top of each other and sew up to the point where I want it to open. One press button at the neck is usually enough.

The suggested gathered skirt dimensions are just that: suggestions. I trust you are perfectly capable of cutting squares and didn’t bother to include them in the pattern drawing. If you want a half circle skirt, you can use this.

The possibilities for combinations are basically endless. You can use this pattern to make pinafore dresses, use your own preferred skirt length, play with embellishments and so on. If you do use it for a pinafore dress you might want to be generous with the allowance. Since it needs to fit over your basic dress, make the armholes wider and add to the sides. I hope you’ll have a lot of fun with this and will love it. And of course I’d love to see the results!

The leggings pattern is self explanatory, I guess. Don’t add sewing allowance for jersey or knit to the sides, maybe just a bit for the hem in the waist and the leg bottom, depending on how long you want them. My girls usually wear boots, so I like them a bit shorter. You don’t need to add elastic, just fold the hem back in the waist. And if you use the shirt pattern from the free Blythe overall pattern you can combine those two for PJs. For the shoes/ boots I’d like to point you to Making doll shoe soles the easy way. Sylvie is wearing the boots with the little trim at the top in the second picture.

14 out of 100 variations

The following pictures show just a few of the many variations you can create with this pattern. The samples show the basic full dress form, and combinations of skirt and short top (1), long top (2) and tunic top (3). For the under-bust top I cut directly at the line without allowance. The last dress (green dress with button panel) on a doll. For this I added additional width (approx. 10 mm) in the middle for two tiny folds to create the panel.

How about matching eyes for your new dresses? Check out ResinRapture free eye template sheets!

I hope this was fun and your dolls will have a lot of cute dresses soon :). Don’t forget to subscribe to get notified of new posts. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

And maybe you’d like to join the Facebook group I created a couple of days ago to show how it turned out?

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

I very much hope the group will grow into a nice community of creative doll owners. Sales-free and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls. A lot of them can share clothes and the same patterns work for a lot of different dolls. Let’s figure it out together!

Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.

Note: Since a lot of patterns require the same basic techniques, I am not going to walk you through every step. I don’t want to insult your sewing skills. But in case you are unsure how to go about it: Here is a short guide with some tricks and tips. I hope it helps to understand why I do certain things and how.

So here it is:

Pattern and tutorial for a coat / jacket

The pattern is made to fit the Pure Neemo S body.

Make sure you print the PDF without automatic scaling.

Letter / DIN A4 PDF
Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog if you want to use it

Cut out your pattern pieces and glue them to cardboard. Read through the tutorial first, I do some things like attaching sleeves a bit differently, and if you are used to your workflow, you might want to change the order accordingly. You need to add seam allowance to all pieces, except to the edge of the front panels (B in the pattern drawing).

The first thing I usually do is run a small zigzag along all pieces and mark middles. I sew a lot of very tiny stuff by hand, and you will need to sew at least some of the pieces by hand as well. If you want to use fabric that doesn’t fray you can skip this step of course. Before you zigzag the collar, cut tiny darts into the sewing allowance above the upper curve (see picture), else your fabric will crumple if you fold it down. If you want to use iron-on interfacing instead of a hem you can skip the zigzag.

Fold the front panel back (except panel left side face down) and mark 5 mm at the top. Sew along the pattern line. Same at the bottom hem of the panel, full length of the fold. Turn the edges inside out (1) and use a strip of cardboard to make the edges as neat as possible. Press the fold. Pin both front panels to the back part (2). Make sure your pieces are on the correct side.

Sew side seams and shoulder seams, but don’t include the shoulder part of the front panel. (3)

Since this is such a small jacket, we don’t want too much bulk and go for a one-layer collar. Make the collar hem. It’s a lot easier to make a neatly rounded fold if you take your pattern piece, hold it on the fabric and press the fabric carefully down along the curve of the cardboard. While your iron is still hot, use it to flatten the side seams. I chose a tiny rolled hem for the collar, but of course you can just stitch the fold down.

Take your collar and your body piece, both right side up, and pin the collar with the seam on the inside to the middle of your neckline (4 in the third picture). You might want to baste this down. As you can see, the ends of your collar end at the part where you have created your panel edge. We want to sew the collar to the neckline in a way that both ends fit into your little corners. I would baste it to the back and sew from the inside, where you can see your pattern line.

Once you have done this, you fold the collar up. You will already see where this is going. Baste the fold or press it. You still have those two loose “flaps” from your front panel. Create a tiny fold that will cover the stitches of your freshly attached collar. I would baste this before I actually stitch the fold down. Turn the parts or put them on the doll in between steps to make sure everything aligns neatly and you have a smoothly curving “fake lining”. That’s one of the reasons why I always put the sleeves in last, it’s just so much easier to do a fit check without sleeves. As for the lining: Whether you chose to use a hidden stitch like I did or just a top stitch: make sure you grab just enough fabric to attach the lining, not poke all the way through. It should be invisible from the outside of your coat.

After this fiddly part the rest is cake ;). Attach the sleeves. Fold back the cuff and add a topstitch. You will already have noticed that your panel fold at the bottom created the start of your bottom hem fold. Fold it back, press it and stitch it down. Pressing seams is generally a good idea, and if you have zigzagged all your parts you can part and fold your sewing allowance to either side of your seam. That way you have a lot less bulk. Now all you need to do is add snap buttons/buttons to the panel and fold the collar halfway down again. And if you have used kid’s felt pen to draw your pattern lines (like I did to make them more visible in the pictures), washing would probably be a good idea ;).

And just to reward yourself after this fiddly job with something nice and easy next time: The next pattern will be the ultimate all-in-one dress pattern ;). If you like the dress she’s wearing: You’ll get the pattern for it in a little while. Some of the sample dresses are not finished yet. And since I just got the news that I can re-open my shop after almost five months of lockdown, I have to concentrate on my business for a change.

This is how it looks.

How about matching eyes for your new clothes? Check out ResinRapture free eye template sheets!

I hope this was fun and one of your dolls will have a cute coat soon :). Don’t forget to subscribe to get notified of new posts via email. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

And maybe you’d like to join the Facebook group I created recently to show how it turned out?

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

I very much hope the group will grow into a nice community of creative doll owners. Sales-free and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls. A lot of them can share clothes and the same patterns work for a lot of different dolls. Let’s figure it out together!

Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.

And since it’s a fairly quick and simple outfit I thought I’d share the pattern.

If you found this via Pinterest or visit for the first time:
Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog if you want to use it. Subscribers get notified of new patterns via email. And of course you can just follow ResinRapture on Facebook. Thank you!

So here it is:

Pattern and tutorial for a simple overall with a bib, a shirt and a matching hair band.

The pattern is made to fit the Pure Neemo S body, but you can use it for similar sizes like Kruseling girls or Kurhn as well.

I used a combination of berry colored jersey and light lavender cotton with dots for Coco. This is how it looks.

Tutorial

Bib overall

How to print the pattern: Place it in a document that allows picture scaling (e.g. Word). Scale proportionally to 19 cm (7.48 inch) width. If you want to use the pattern for a Kruseling doll, you might want to make the sleeves about 8 mm shorter. A Kurhn or similar sized fashion doll will need a bit added length in the legs. I recommend making a quick mock up to see if you need to reduce the pants pattern piece width. The included sewing allowance is quite generous. Or you can just use the PDF. Make sure you print them without automatic scaling.

Letter / DIN A4 PDF
Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog if you want to use it!

1. Overall (A) pattern pieces have 4mm seam allowance already included. If you usually don’t need that much, cut your pieces a bit less wide.
2. Shoulder straps (B) and optional pocket (C) have no seam allowance included, you will need to add what you need depending on how much you want to fold back.
3. The hairband includes enough seam allowance for a 1 mm double folded hem. Add more if you want to zigzag the edges, fold them and add a top stitch.
4. The shirt pattern pieces (1,2 & 3) do NOT include seam allowance. If you work with knit/ jersey you won’t need it. I usually just cut 2 of the body part (1), and cut the neckline deeper. You can pull it up over the bum and don’t need to bother with a closure in the back.

How to sew the overall

I usually run a small zigzag along all pattern pieces first. That way I prevent fraying while I handle the pieces and can decide later what to do by hand/machine.

Start with sewing the crotch seam, followed by the side seams. Add a top stich if you want one. Fold back the seam along the arm holes and the front bib and add a top stitch.

If you want to add a pocket or any kind of embellishment to the bib, now would be the time to do that. Keep in mind that you will need a bit of space for the buttons, so don’t place your pocket too high. Since I didn’t want too much bulk in the front, I decided to attach the snap buttons for the straps in the back. I attached the shoulder straps and buttons in one go to the front.

Next the inner leg seams. Make sure you align the leg parts from the bottom hem up, there needs to be a bit of overlap for the sewing allowance of the back seam in the crotch. Now sew the back seam. After closing the back I attached the pointy part of the snap button to the back bib. I prefer crossing straps, they don’t slide down the arms as easily. To mark where the counter part of the snaps should go I simply put the overall on the doll and pressed the button down into the fabric to make a little mark. Attach the snaps and cut off/hem the end of the straps.

Almost done. I used a double folded blind hem on the leg bottoms and turned the hem back up. Of course you can fold it up as it is, but I think it just looks nicer if you can’t see the hem on the left side. In the variation below I used some trim instead of a pocket and added the same trim to the headband and legs.

Shirt and headband

I used a very small double folded blind hem on the headband. The elastic is actually an ear loop from a surgical mask cut it in half. Since we all have plenty of those in these strange times, one might as well make the best of it. They are easy to stitch on, and soft enough to pull through a button hole.

As you can see in the picture, I used a minimum of 2 mm seam allowance for the shirt. I usually sew stuff that tiny by hand, you might need to add a bit of allowance if you use a machine. Front- and back neckline are cut deeper than the pattern pieces in this example. Neck and sleeves have a rolled hem, the bottom is finished with a tiny zigzag, folded up and top stitched. I prefer to pull shirts up over the butt instead of closing them in the back, and I am not a fan of the diagonal grain, that’s why I didn’t draft it as a one-piece pattern shirt. There’s no hard and fast rule, just try different ways and figure out what method suits your needs best.

I hope this was fun and one of your dolls will have a cute overall soon :). Don’t forget to subscribe, the next patterns will be for a coat followed by a dress and leggings. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

And maybe you’d like to join the Facebook group I created a couple of days ago to show how it turned out?

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

I very much hope the group will grow into a nice community of creative doll owners. Sales-free and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls. A lot of them can share clothes and the same patterns work for a lot of different dolls. Let’s figure it out together!

Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.

She is quite successful in making me smile- in fact, I can’t stop when I look at her. And of course I needed to make outfits for her. She really, really likes pink. I have to get used to that 😉

Meet Coco & Cheer up! 🙂

And if that wasn’t enough: I just started a Facebook group for 1/6 scale sewing enthusiasts. Not only sewing, and not only Blythe. Take a look and join the group if you like to create for dolls in that size. You’ll find it here: Onesixbackstage

Of course it needed a group cover picture, and Coco volunteered.