This post is my Happy New Year gift to you, maybe it’ll inspire you to make something new for your dolls in 2025. It’s a basic pattern set for Monst Savage dolls or other dolls in the same size. It includes a tunic, leggings, a bib overall and a dress top pattern (I just added the measurements for a gathered skirt to attach to the top to create a dress). The sleeve pattern is for both, top and tunic. You will find the pattern PDFs at the end of this post.

All the clothes my Monst dolls are wearing are created using these pattern pieces. I created the shorter dress tops by cutting without allowance at the bottom. I used the dress top pattern and added 1 cm at the bottom to make the shirt to go with the overall.

You will find previous posts showing off Monst clothes here, but I added some of those older pictures here as well.

First variations of the bib overall. I used the dart at the leg bottom to create a slightly curved shape of the pant legs to make Toffee’s brownish overalls. Both, the flowery overall and the one with the white stars, are made using the overall pattern in one piece. The straps are crossed in the back and attached to the little “bib” in the back. I used Velcro or press buttons.

Jellybean is wearing the white straight leg version without the darts and a different bib. When you cut the overall pattern at the dotted line, you can use the piece for pants, just as I did with the white overall. I added the pocket separately. The straps close behind the neck. The grey pants with the dark stars are made using the same pattern piece, I just added a waistband and didn’t close the seam at the back completely. The tops are made using the dress top pattern. I recommend adding a bit of length to make them end below waist line. They look nicer with the overall when the shirt seam is tucked in. The little collar isn’t included in the pattern, it’s just a slightly curved piece I attached as an afterthought.

The leggings pattern doesn’t need allowance (except a bit at the waist) when used for stretchy fabric. Milka wears them with her dress. Toffee has a stripy version to go with a matching top, the red leggings are worn with the tunic top.

And now the dresses. Depending on where you cut the top – with or without allowance at the bottom – you can create various dresses with different skirt lengths. The tunic can work as a dress as well. If you feel your dolls need panties under such a short dress, you might want to check out this post.

The first two pictures show variations in sleeve-, top- and skirt length. The third one shows a dress made with the tunic pattern piece and and added short skirt. Toffee in a knit tunic with stripes. Milka wears a skirt with a heart shaped bib. It’s so much fun to alter and embellish to create lots of different outfits. I hope you will have the same fun creating unique versions for your little ones using the pattern.

Make sure you print the PDF at 100%.

Pattern for DIN A4 paper size (click on icon to open PDF)

Pattern for Letter paper size

Please follow my blog if you want to use the patterns. And of course I am always happy to see the results, so please tag me on Instagram when you have created something using this pattern.  If you are looking for more free patterns, check out the sewing section on this blog. Happy sewing!

The pattern is made for jersey or other stretchy fabric. But as you can see in the picture with the light grey cotton bunny tunic, you can use the tunic pattern for non-stretch fabric as well. You might need to add a bit more sewing allowance. It’s a very simple, straightforward pattern for an outfit. Of course you can add pockets, buttons and other embellishments. Or different fabric patterns for bodice and sleeves like in the picture. I used rolled hems on the sleeves and neckline. The tunic bottom hem is just folded back about 4mm and stitched down with an invisible backstitch. When I use this kind of hem with jersey, I zigzag along the edge to keep it from rolling up.

The tunic closes in the back. I stitched the overlapping parts together from the bottom up to approx. waist height and closed the rest with Velcro. A press button at the neck will probably be enough if you don’t mind a little gap. And in case you are interested: The bike is a Barbie bike.

Of course you can just add a bit of lace or length to the top and use it as a dress pattern.

I hope you have fun making some outfits for your KID girl. This pattern is not for creating outfits for sale, just for your personal use. Thank you!

Make sure you print the PDF at 100%.

Pattern for DIN A4 paper size (click on icon to open PDF)

Pattern for Letter paper size

Please follow my blog if you want to use the patterns. And of course I am always happy to see the result.

The one-size-fits all exercise outfit pattern for your Raccoon girls. It fits all slim bodies and the NaPoGlam body. It’s tight on Iplehouse classic body girls, but can easily be adjusted.

Making the Yoga outfits for the Raccoon body comparison was so much fun that I thought you might want to make some for your girls as well. I used medium cotton jersey and would recommend something similar. Very thin fabric might be too stretchy and see-through, or rip when it gets caught in the mobility joints. The top is closed with doll Velcro. I am usually not a fan of Velcro, but in this case it’s the best option.

Except for a zigzag stitch at certain places everything is hand sewn. Jersey doesn’t fray, I added the zigzag for stability and to prevent the waistband from wearing out.

Seam allowance is included in the pattern, you can print and trace it without adding allowance. I didn’t use any elastic in the waist, the shape is kept just by the way it’s made.

Cut your pieces (turn the pants piece for other leg). Close the shoulder straps and darts. I used the zigzag stitch at the sides and on the bottom side of the waistband (or rather chest-band in this case). Make sure you cut your band with the grain in the right direction.

Flatten the dart seams before you add the band. Connect it to the top first, then fold down, fold back the bottom and add a topstitch. Stretch the fabric just a little while you do that.

You can adjust the top to the chest size by cutting the neckline a bit deeper for a larger breast. But it’s not really necessary, even my girls with a larger bust can wear both necklines.

I used rolled hems on the neckline and arm holes.

At the pants parts I added the zigzag at the leg bottom and in the waist after I closed the front and the darts.

After closing the legs and back I folded back the hems and stitched them down with an almost invisible variant of a backstitch (very small stitch on the top, larger distance below). But that’s up to you if you want it to be seen or not. Just make sure you stretch the fabric a bit while you do the waist. You need to do the seam flexible enough to allow the garment to go over the hips.

The back of the top is closed as shown in the last picture. Both sides are folded back and stitched down, the left side goes over the right side (the right part of the back is a bit wider).

I hope you have fun making some exercise outfits for your girl. This pattern is not for creating outfits for sale, just for your personal use. Thank you!

Make sure you print the PDF at 100%.

Pattern for DIN A4 paper size (click on icon to open PDF)

Pattern for Letter paper size

Please follow my blog if you want to use the patterns. And of course I am always happy to see the result, especially if you try this on a SartoriaJ girl. I don’t have one, so I can’t try if it fits them as well. :).

And I want to take the opportunity to give you either a belated Christmas gift or just the first freebie for this year. Nothing much, just a little panties pattern for Monst dolls.

Do you remember the girl that arrived a couple of weeks ago? Just in time for Christmas her two sisters came as well. Meet Bear and ChouChou. They will be customized as well, but I took the pictures right after I unpacked them. Both are not wearing their complete outfits, ChouChou is missing her socks and Bear is just wearing her dress. If you want to see her complete outfit, just pop over to Emily’s great review (linked below the pictures). Currently only Bear still has her face on, I already wiped ChouChou and GuoGuo for repaint purposes. The face paint comes off really easy, a lot easier than some of the Barbie face paint I have removed. And I have to come up with some better names for them.

I thought about writing a review, but Emily from The Toybox Philosopher beat me to it. She did such a great job that I am just going to point you to her most thorough review of these little dolls. Check out her blog, there is lots of really interesting content to explore. She wrote that she wished they came with underwear. My thoughts exactly. Some of the adorable dresses they come in are really short, and it would be nice if they had at least some panties.

So I made some. And I am going to share the pattern, they are really quick and easy to make.

Download the picture, place it in Word and scale it to 70mm width and 100mm height. If you use very thin and stretchy fabric (like the jersey I used for the white panties), you might want to place the pattern on a horizontal grain. Else it might stretch just a bit too much. You can see the direction of the grain when the pictures are enlarged, the striped panties use a vertical grain.

The dotted lines in the drawing are allowance for the seams you fold to the inside later. You don’t need to add sewing allowance at the sides, just place your seam at approximately the same distance from the edge going inwards. I hope this makes sense. 15 minutes of hand stitching later, and your girl has panties.

I made a couple of outfits for the little Monsts, but I am only posting two of them. I will wait until they have their new faces and show you the rest later. Looking at the flowery dress I think I might need to add some beads for buttons. What do you think?

And now: Have a lovely start into the year and enjoy a bit of sewing.

Ivy arrived in August 2021. I wrote a review of the New Slim body but she went back into her box after that. She looks very gentle and almost docile in the promo pics, but her sculpt really offers a lot more. I wasn’t sure where I wanted to go with her, so I thought I’d store her safely until I could figure her out. She isn’t the first Raccoon face that surprised me with a lot more sculpted detail than what the promo pictures show.

Ivy’s black haired promo pics looked so lovely that I ordered a black wig for her, and my original plans were black hair & blue eyes. I painted her the first time and just couldn’t bond with her. So I wiped her blank again and made a second attempt, just to drop her head after spraying her. Thank god nothing broke, just her face up was ruined. But I was so frustrated that I boxed her again after wiping the head.

She stayed in her box until March 2022. I had a lot of time to rethink her character, find a name and go in a completely different direction. I decided to trust that the eyes would be enough to make her look gentle and emphasize the strength in her features. A lighter, confident and fresh look in combination with those doe eyes. I was really worried that I wouldn’t be able to bond with her, but the third time is the charm: I absolutely love her now. She can look gentle and sweet, and she can look strong and confident. I can’t put my finger on it, but there’s something about her face that reminds me of Botticelli’s Venus, and the Dollshe Venitu sculpt, at least at a certain angle. Anyway, she looks great at any angle. Beautiful profile, too.

But enough of the talk, here’s more of this girl. Viveca in some of her new clothes. I have made more for her, but I am going to split the pictures into two posts.

This is the tunic and pants combination she wears in her character profile. I had those tiny salmon colored buttons for ages, and they never really looked right with any other fabric, but they are an absolute match with the tunic print.

More flower print dresses. This is the same fabric used for two different patterns, unfortunately the light was not that good when I took these. The sleeveless version has an under-bust waistline and is shorter than the one with sleeves. I will probably take pictures of her in these again, so you will see the difference.

This is a dress with a curved waistline, slightly puffy sleeves and a layered skirt, I am not sure if this pointy waistline has a name. If any of you guys know what this cut is called, please let me know in the comments.

This shirt+skirt combination needs a friend who wears the counter-part. I made the pink layered muslin skirt for Viveca, but the green shirt fabric doesn’t suit her that well. But since it’s the same pattern as the pink shirt, Ludivine was happy to wear it and borrow the pink skirt. Viveca’s green skirt has a fake button panel, it closes in the back.

And last but not least a plaid dress. I have a lot of this fabric, it was a bargain, and I just wanted something cheap for a pattern test. But nonetheless I took the trouble to match up the checks as far as possible. And I am glad I did. I love her in this dress. (And it fits, pattern tested succesfully).

And while I was happily sewing away I spilled coffee over my good old needle book. It was already falling apart, so I thought I’d make a new one. Just in case you sew a lot by hand and want to make one, here’s the pattern. I found a nice video tutorial I will link for you, just in case you want some instructions. Mine looks a bit different, it has a flap and closes with a button and an elastic loop.

My Christmas present for you is an EID model body corset pattern. It’s just the pattern, no instructions. Ruben’s Christmas corset actually closes in the back, I attached the front pieces to a strip of black velvet with tiny studs. I would have loved to add matching pants and give him mesh stockings, but he would have needed high heels for those. And I didn’t have daylight time, that’s why I had to take the pictures using artificial light.

I wish you all happy holidays!

Saddle bag or easy felt handbag

Make sure you print the PDF without automatic scaling.
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Letter / DIN A4 PDF

This is the basic pattern for a handbag in saddle bag style. If you use felt for this bag it’s really easy to make, but you need a bit of hand sewing. Lots of room for individual decoration, e.g. embroidery or embellishments.

The felt bag is cut without allowance. The pieces are sewn together with a simple blanket stitch. But I wrapped my thread around some green wool to create a more interesting edging, added some more threads and braided the shoulder strap. The tiny button hole slit is just a cut, and a bead works just as well as the buttons I used.  The light blue bag is basicallly the same without any additional decoration.

The brown suede bag was a bit more complicated. It’s cut with allowance, and the seams are on the inside, but I added a top stitch. I also added a darker panel to the lid. It closes with a press button, the silver circle is just decoration.

Dandelion’s fringed leather bag is the large version of the saddlebag, but I used the front piece twice because I didn’t want a lid. The light grey / flowery reversible bag shows the triangular lid version. I attached rings on both sides of the front panel, so the same cord with the tassels can be tied to them to close the bag.

Messenger bag

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Letter / DIN A4 PDF

This bag comes in variations as well. Walden’s felt bag is made without allowance and the pieces are connected with a blanket stitch. I added a front pocket. Judith likes her bag lined and in green and brown, and hers has a little pocket as well.

Karla’s comes with embroidery and tassels. I used the smaller pattern but added a lot of allowance, so it’s a bit larger.

The old rose bag with the suede base and straps is lined, and I cut the outside in two pieces. I measured the leather part and the fabric part and stitched them together first, so the form of the outer bag piece looked like the pattern piece again. Since I didn’t have such small buckles, I used a bit of wire. Wrap your wire around something like a knitting needle or pen twice, bend the rings in opposite directions and use a pair of pliers to create a straight part in the middle. It’s fiddly, but an easy way to create fake buckles you can actually use to close something.

I hope you have fun with the patterns and find lots of ways to create your own individual bags. I certainly had fun and went into a little bag making frenzy as you can see. My girls appreciate it :D.

Don’t forget to subscribe to get notified of new posts. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

It’s a sales-free group and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls – except BJD. Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.

It just didn’t occur to me to make a bag for every girl since I hardly ever use the one hand bag I own. I have made three for the smaller dolls and one for the large dolls, but that’s it. But they do make nice accessories in pictures, and my girls just don’t want to fight over the few bags available.

So I decided to make lots of bags for them and share the patterns with you. I am not going to give detailed instructions, just ideas and inspiration – I hope.

Of course you can make the tote and the hobo bag without the tiny darts and just use the basic pattern outline, but I prefer the more voluminous look the darts at the bottom create. If you want to make a larger bag for 1/4 dolls, use the blue pattern (120%) lines. As for the the length of the handles: I am sure you can adjust them according to your wishes without a pattern. I like to measure the handle length when the bag is ready to hold it next to the doll. It’s the easiest way to see at what height it looks best.

The sample pictures below show how the pattern looks with different doll sizes. If it’s made with 100% or 120% (blue) print-out of the pattern is mentioned below the picture. The tote and the hobo bag look better and more in proportion if you use the larger blue pattern version for mature 1/4 dolls like the FID and Raccoon. The smaller version looks more like a handbag as you can see.

I will split this post into two parts – the fiddlier ones will be in the second post. Still working on the bags. ;). The saddle bag and the messenger bag will be published in part two. They work in both sizes for the larger dolls.

Simple tote bag

Let’s start with a super simple one, the tote bag. You can make it with a lining or without. The lining is just the same basic bag in a different fabric. If you connect the outer bag and the lining make sure you leave an opening big enough to pull it inside out again. Of course you can just fold back the respective top edges and add a top stitch to connect lining and outer bag. It helps if you press your seams before you connect the parts.

Letter / DIN A4 PDF (use the blue lines for 1/4 dolls if you want the larger version).
Don’t forget to subscribe to ResinRapture 🙂

Lined hobo or reversible shopping bag

You can use this pattern to either make a reversible bag or a hobo bag with or without lining.

I would like to point you to this video for the “how-to”. It shows how to make a simple reversible shopping bag. Dana offers a free bag pattern in human size as well, if you want to make this in human size. And if you are into DIY, her channel offers a lot of tutorials for human size sewing.

I went for the lined hobo bag, not only because it’s really fiddly to pull the bag inside out in this tiny scale, but because the straps are rather bulky if they are lined as well. That’s why I cut the lining without straps and left one of the sides open to pull it inside out. I closed the gap using an invisible stitch and a rolled hem on the strap edges.

Use 120% (blue) size for 1/4 dolls. Don’t forget to subscribe to ResinRapture 🙂

Letter / DIN A4 PDF

I am sure you find a lot of ways to create your own individual style with the basic pattern. These are all done by hand and just take about 30 minutes. I hope you have fun with the patterns and your dolls will have something to look forward to.

Don’t forget to subscribe to get notified of new posts. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

I very much hope the group will grow into a nice community of creative doll owners. Sales-free and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls – except BJD. Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.

Something unrelated

Since I have started to write this and make the bags we had a bit of a humidity situation over here, maybe you have seen it in the news. I was lucky enough to get away with a bit of water in the basement. I really hope all of you are well and dry.

Note: Since a lot of patterns require the same basic techniques, I am not going to walk you through every step with every pattern. I don’t want to insult your sewing skills. But in case you are unsure how to go about it: Here is a short guide with some tricks and tips. I hope it helps to understand why I do certain things and how.

And now:

The hopefully ultimate all-in-one dress pattern…

The pattern is made to fit the Pure Neemo S body.

Make sure you print the PDF without automatic scaling.

Letter / DIN A4 PDF
Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog if you want to use it!

Tutorial

Ok, not all in one, but certainly a lot in one. I tried to design the pattern in a way that would allow you to use just a single pattern piece for a variety of dress forms and looks. Of course it’s up to you how you use it. And if you are a fan of a mass of tiny pattern pieces, print and cut as many as you like. But if you are like me and can’t remember if one out of twenty tiny pieces was for Barbie or Blythe and for what dress, I think you might like the idea of the all-in-one pattern. And since I hope you will get as much use out of it as I am, I’ll show you what I did to make it last.

As you can see in the first picture, I cut one half of the neckline high and one low, I just turn the pattern to draw the other half. And I cover the pieces with self adhesive clear film. I use kid’s felt pen to draw on fabric, it washes out easily and you can see it through the fabric, and with the film on the pattern I can just wipe it off.

After that is done, I make tiny cut-outs where I want to draw the different top lengths. For an under-bust top I just don’t add sewing allowance to (1). To mark the sleeve lengths cut out darts are usually enough. Just use one of the straight edges as a ruler to connect the marks you made using the darts. The second sleeve piece is just for puffed sleeves, if you never make them you don’t need it.

But in case you want to make puffed sleeves, here’s how to use the piece.

First you want to use it to draw your sleeve (add allowance). I am not a fan of gathers in the armpit, so we start gathering where the tiny blue marks are (1). It’s a lot easier to gather your sleeve if you use some masking tape to keep the fabric in place (2+3). I usually just use one strip to tape the fabric to the pattern piece, just below the point where I want to start with my gathering stitch. It’s just easier to see the position in the picture with the tiny strips.

Start your gathering stitch at the mark and shove the fabric a bit down until you can see the black curved line. Press the middle of your fabric to the middle of the piece and push the gathers into place until they pull the fabric down (3). Just keep in mind that you work with allowance, the curve is approximately at the same height as your line on the fabric, not the edge of the fabric. Make a knot or a back stitch to keep the first part of the gathers in place. It’s hard to explain, but when you are actually doing it it’s quite obvious what to do. Same for the second half. Lock your stitch. You have now pre-gathered your sleeve and it will be much easier to fit it into the arm hole. You already know how to set the sleeves if you have read the guide with tips and tricks.

If you want a little cuff, make a fold and add a tiny seam just below the fold. Make sure the fold points up. Whether you make your cuff bottom seam now or after you closed the sides is up to you.

I am pretty sure you will have lots of ideas how to combine or alter lengths and parts, add collars or vary the skirt lengths. Just one last thing: The back part is designed to close overlapping. I fold back both pieces at the dotted line, add a top stitch and decide to either attach press buttons or close the dress skirt. I just place the folds on top of each other and sew up to the point where I want it to open. One press button at the neck is usually enough.

The suggested gathered skirt dimensions are just that: suggestions. I trust you are perfectly capable of cutting squares and didn’t bother to include them in the pattern drawing. If you want a half circle skirt, you can use this.

The possibilities for combinations are basically endless. You can use this pattern to make pinafore dresses, use your own preferred skirt length, play with embellishments and so on. If you do use it for a pinafore dress you might want to be generous with the allowance. Since it needs to fit over your basic dress, make the armholes wider and add to the sides. I hope you’ll have a lot of fun with this and will love it. And of course I’d love to see the results!

The leggings pattern is self explanatory, I guess. Don’t add sewing allowance for jersey or knit to the sides, maybe just a bit for the hem in the waist and the leg bottom, depending on how long you want them. My girls usually wear boots, so I like them a bit shorter. You don’t need to add elastic, just fold the hem back in the waist. And if you use the shirt pattern from the free Blythe overall pattern you can combine those two for PJs. For the shoes/ boots I’d like to point you to Making doll shoe soles the easy way. Sylvie is wearing the boots with the little trim at the top in the second picture.

14 out of 100 variations

The following pictures show just a few of the many variations you can create with this pattern. The samples show the basic full dress form, and combinations of skirt and short top (1), long top (2) and tunic top (3). For the under-bust top I cut directly at the line without allowance. The last dress (green dress with button panel) on a doll. For this I added additional width (approx. 10 mm) in the middle for two tiny folds to create the panel.

How about matching eyes for your new dresses? Check out ResinRapture free eye template sheets!

I hope this was fun and your dolls will have a lot of cute dresses soon :). Don’t forget to subscribe to get notified of new posts. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

And maybe you’d like to join the Facebook group I created a couple of days ago to show how it turned out?

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

I very much hope the group will grow into a nice community of creative doll owners. Sales-free and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls. A lot of them can share clothes and the same patterns work for a lot of different dolls. Let’s figure it out together!

Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.

Note: Since a lot of patterns require the same basic techniques, I am not going to walk you through every step. I don’t want to insult your sewing skills. But in case you are unsure how to go about it: Here is a short guide with some tricks and tips. I hope it helps to understand why I do certain things and how.

So here it is:

Pattern and tutorial for a coat / jacket

The pattern is made to fit the Pure Neemo S body.

Make sure you print the PDF without automatic scaling.

Letter / DIN A4 PDF
Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog if you want to use it

Cut out your pattern pieces and glue them to cardboard. Read through the tutorial first, I do some things like attaching sleeves a bit differently, and if you are used to your workflow, you might want to change the order accordingly. You need to add seam allowance to all pieces, except to the edge of the front panels (B in the pattern drawing).

The first thing I usually do is run a small zigzag along all pieces and mark middles. I sew a lot of very tiny stuff by hand, and you will need to sew at least some of the pieces by hand as well. If you want to use fabric that doesn’t fray you can skip this step of course. Before you zigzag the collar, cut tiny darts into the sewing allowance above the upper curve (see picture), else your fabric will crumple if you fold it down. If you want to use iron-on interfacing instead of a hem you can skip the zigzag.

Fold the front panel back (except panel left side face down) and mark 5 mm at the top. Sew along the pattern line. Same at the bottom hem of the panel, full length of the fold. Turn the edges inside out (1) and use a strip of cardboard to make the edges as neat as possible. Press the fold. Pin both front panels to the back part (2). Make sure your pieces are on the correct side.

Sew side seams and shoulder seams, but don’t include the shoulder part of the front panel. (3)

Since this is such a small jacket, we don’t want too much bulk and go for a one-layer collar. Make the collar hem. It’s a lot easier to make a neatly rounded fold if you take your pattern piece, hold it on the fabric and press the fabric carefully down along the curve of the cardboard. While your iron is still hot, use it to flatten the side seams. I chose a tiny rolled hem for the collar, but of course you can just stitch the fold down.

Take your collar and your body piece, both right side up, and pin the collar with the seam on the inside to the middle of your neckline (4 in the third picture). You might want to baste this down. As you can see, the ends of your collar end at the part where you have created your panel edge. We want to sew the collar to the neckline in a way that both ends fit into your little corners. I would baste it to the back and sew from the inside, where you can see your pattern line.

Once you have done this, you fold the collar up. You will already see where this is going. Baste the fold or press it. You still have those two loose “flaps” from your front panel. Create a tiny fold that will cover the stitches of your freshly attached collar. I would baste this before I actually stitch the fold down. Turn the parts or put them on the doll in between steps to make sure everything aligns neatly and you have a smoothly curving “fake lining”. That’s one of the reasons why I always put the sleeves in last, it’s just so much easier to do a fit check without sleeves. As for the lining: Whether you chose to use a hidden stitch like I did or just a top stitch: make sure you grab just enough fabric to attach the lining, not poke all the way through. It should be invisible from the outside of your coat.

After this fiddly part the rest is cake ;). Attach the sleeves. Fold back the cuff and add a topstitch. You will already have noticed that your panel fold at the bottom created the start of your bottom hem fold. Fold it back, press it and stitch it down. Pressing seams is generally a good idea, and if you have zigzagged all your parts you can part and fold your sewing allowance to either side of your seam. That way you have a lot less bulk. Now all you need to do is add snap buttons/buttons to the panel and fold the collar halfway down again. And if you have used kid’s felt pen to draw your pattern lines (like I did to make them more visible in the pictures), washing would probably be a good idea ;).

And just to reward yourself after this fiddly job with something nice and easy next time: The next pattern will be the ultimate all-in-one dress pattern ;). If you like the dress she’s wearing: You’ll get the pattern for it in a little while. Some of the sample dresses are not finished yet. And since I just got the news that I can re-open my shop after almost five months of lockdown, I have to concentrate on my business for a change.

This is how it looks.

How about matching eyes for your new clothes? Check out ResinRapture free eye template sheets!

I hope this was fun and one of your dolls will have a cute coat soon :). Don’t forget to subscribe to get notified of new posts via email. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

And maybe you’d like to join the Facebook group I created recently to show how it turned out?

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

I very much hope the group will grow into a nice community of creative doll owners. Sales-free and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls. A lot of them can share clothes and the same patterns work for a lot of different dolls. Let’s figure it out together!

Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.

And since it’s a fairly quick and simple outfit I thought I’d share the pattern.

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So here it is:

Pattern and tutorial for a simple overall with a bib, a shirt and a matching hair band.

The pattern is made to fit the Pure Neemo S body, but you can use it for similar sizes like Kruseling girls or Kurhn as well.

I used a combination of berry colored jersey and light lavender cotton with dots for Coco. This is how it looks.

Tutorial

Bib overall

How to print the pattern: Place it in a document that allows picture scaling (e.g. Word). Scale proportionally to 19 cm (7.48 inch) width. If you want to use the pattern for a Kruseling doll, you might want to make the sleeves about 8 mm shorter. A Kurhn or similar sized fashion doll will need a bit added length in the legs. I recommend making a quick mock up to see if you need to reduce the pants pattern piece width. The included sewing allowance is quite generous. Or you can just use the PDF. Make sure you print them without automatic scaling.

Letter / DIN A4 PDF
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1. Overall (A) pattern pieces have 4mm seam allowance already included. If you usually don’t need that much, cut your pieces a bit less wide.
2. Shoulder straps (B) and optional pocket (C) have no seam allowance included, you will need to add what you need depending on how much you want to fold back.
3. The hairband includes enough seam allowance for a 1 mm double folded hem. Add more if you want to zigzag the edges, fold them and add a top stitch.
4. The shirt pattern pieces (1,2 & 3) do NOT include seam allowance. If you work with knit/ jersey you won’t need it. I usually just cut 2 of the body part (1), and cut the neckline deeper. You can pull it up over the bum and don’t need to bother with a closure in the back.

How to sew the overall

I usually run a small zigzag along all pattern pieces first. That way I prevent fraying while I handle the pieces and can decide later what to do by hand/machine.

Start with sewing the crotch seam, followed by the side seams. Add a top stich if you want one. Fold back the seam along the arm holes and the front bib and add a top stitch.

If you want to add a pocket or any kind of embellishment to the bib, now would be the time to do that. Keep in mind that you will need a bit of space for the buttons, so don’t place your pocket too high. Since I didn’t want too much bulk in the front, I decided to attach the snap buttons for the straps in the back. I attached the shoulder straps and buttons in one go to the front.

Next the inner leg seams. Make sure you align the leg parts from the bottom hem up, there needs to be a bit of overlap for the sewing allowance of the back seam in the crotch. Now sew the back seam. After closing the back I attached the pointy part of the snap button to the back bib. I prefer crossing straps, they don’t slide down the arms as easily. To mark where the counter part of the snaps should go I simply put the overall on the doll and pressed the button down into the fabric to make a little mark. Attach the snaps and cut off/hem the end of the straps.

Almost done. I used a double folded blind hem on the leg bottoms and turned the hem back up. Of course you can fold it up as it is, but I think it just looks nicer if you can’t see the hem on the left side. In the variation below I used some trim instead of a pocket and added the same trim to the headband and legs.

Shirt and headband

I used a very small double folded blind hem on the headband. The elastic is actually an ear loop from a surgical mask cut it in half. Since we all have plenty of those in these strange times, one might as well make the best of it. They are easy to stitch on, and soft enough to pull through a button hole.

As you can see in the picture, I used a minimum of 2 mm seam allowance for the shirt. I usually sew stuff that tiny by hand, you might need to add a bit of allowance if you use a machine. Front- and back neckline are cut deeper than the pattern pieces in this example. Neck and sleeves have a rolled hem, the bottom is finished with a tiny zigzag, folded up and top stitched. I prefer to pull shirts up over the butt instead of closing them in the back, and I am not a fan of the diagonal grain, that’s why I didn’t draft it as a one-piece pattern shirt. There’s no hard and fast rule, just try different ways and figure out what method suits your needs best.

I hope this was fun and one of your dolls will have a cute overall soon :). Don’t forget to subscribe, the next patterns will be for a coat followed by a dress and leggings. You can find all patterns I share in the sewing section of the blog.

And maybe you’d like to join the Facebook group I created a couple of days ago to show how it turned out?

Tag @resinrapture on your Instagram or join the sewing and creating Facebook group OneSixBackstage to show your work!

I very much hope the group will grow into a nice community of creative doll owners. Sales-free and for all those of you who sew and create for Blythe, Pullip, Momoko, Kurhn or other 1/6 scale fashion dolls. A lot of them can share clothes and the same patterns work for a lot of different dolls. Let’s figure it out together!

Here is the link to the Blythe&co sewing and creating group “OneSixBackstage” on Facebook.